Excess Sebum Production

Overactive sebaceous glands, stimulated by androgens (male hormones present in all genders), produce excessive oil. This mixes with dead skin cells, forming a plug in the hair follicle.

Abnormal Keratinization

In acne-prone skin, the natural shedding of keratinocytes (skin cells) inside the follicle is altered. These cells stick together instead of exfoliating normally, creating comedones (whiteheads and blackheads).

Cutibacterium acnes (C. acnes) Overgrowth

This skin bacterium thrives in clogged, oxygen-poor follicles. It breaks down sebum into free fatty acids, triggering inflammation and the formation of papules, pustules, and cysts.

Inflammatory Cascade

The immune system reacts to the bacteria and sebum oxidation products by releasing inflammatory mediators (IL-1, TNF-α, IL-8), which cause redness, swelling, and tenderness.

Hormonal Influence

Fluctuations in hormones—especially during puberty, the menstrual cycle, or perimenopause—can upregulate sebaceous activity and worsen congestion.

Other Contributing Factors

-Occlusive skincare or makeup (“comedogenic” ingredients)
-Environmental humidity or sweat
-High-glycaemic diets
-Stress (increases cortisol, which elevates sebum output)
-Certain medications

MORNING ROUTINE

Wash your face with warm water or a mild cleanser and dry.

1. Niacinamide 10% Tranexamic Acid 3% Essence - use 4-5 drops and pat all over the face to control sebum production and act as an effective anti inflammatory.
   NB Use step 2 if your skin needs extra hydration.
2. Hyaluronate 0.9% Ectoin 2% Essence - use 4-5 drops and pat into skin for extra hydration if needed.

NIGHT ROUTINE

Wash your face with a double cleanse of an oil cleanser followed by a very mild cleanser so not to strip the skin and over dry.

By adopting a skin cycling regime over 3 nights it allows your skin to be treated and also recover over time without aggravating and irritating.

Night 1- Mild Exfoliation

1. BHA 2% Exfoliant Essence - this is a chemical exfoliant so to start use a few drops only and patch test to see if it irritates. A very mild sting can occur on first use. It should not aggravate and wash off if it does. Use this exfoliant maybe every 3 nights and slowly build up to every 2nd night if your skin tolerates it.

OR

1. BHA 2% AHA 1% PHA 1% Exfoliant Essence - if your skin is able to tolerate a stronger exfoliant use a few drops to start and patch test to see if it irritates. A very mild sting can occur on first use. It should not aggravate and wash off if it does. Build up slowly from every 3 nights to every 2nd night. A triple strength exfoliant to keep dead skin cells from building up. If this is too potent you can use the BHA 2% Exfoliant Essence instead.
2. Hyaluronate 0.9% + Ectoin 2% Essence
   Replenishes hydration and maintains the skins barrier.

Night 2 — Retinoid Renewal

1. Retinal 0.1% Serum
   Apply a pea sized amount onto clean skin initially to reduce irritation, then increase gradually.
2. Hyaluronate 0.9% + Ectoin 2% Essence
   Replenishes hydration and maintains barrier integrity.

Night 3 — Recovery

1. Niacinamide 10% Tranexamic Acid 3% Essence - use 4-5 drops and pat all over the face to control sebum production and act as an effective anti inflammatory.
2. Hyaluronate 0.9% + Ectoin 2% Essence
   Replenishes hydration and maintains barrier integrity.

Ensure your skin barrier is strong for at least 2 weeks before introducing more active ingredients like Retinal.

2–4 weeks: Smoother texture, fewer whiteheads.
6–8 weeks: Fewer new pimples, improved clarity.
12+ weeks: Reduced pigmentation, refined pores, improved post-acne marks and scarring.
Skin is slow always to respond fully to treatments so please be patient.